Stockings

Only very poor (or refugee) ladies would have gone without stockings. Silk, cotton, wool and (occasionally) linen stockings were all available in the 1860s. Some were machine-made, but handmade stockings were used too. There was a large variety of colors and designs in stockings.

Stockings typically came up over the knee and required garters to hold them up.

Machine-made stockings were often knitted in a single tube, but a heel could be put in by hand. Handmade stockings were also often created as a straight tube, but there are many examples of fitted stockings as well.

Stockings could be plain solid colors or include stripes or clocking - designs on the sides.

Here is an example of stockings available in 1856. These options would have been comparable to the options in the 1860s.

Description of stocking colors and styles
The American Family Encyclopedia, 1856
In 1864, Peterson's tells us that:"Stockings will be worn colored this winter; the silk stockings with narrow stripes around them are very suitable for this season of the year; the ground of the stocking should match either the dress or the petticoat in color. Merino stockings are also manufactured in brilliant colors - violet with black stripes, gray with blue, and black with Solferino; indeed they are to be procured of all shades." 

Arthur's Lady's Home Magazine (1864) lists many fashionable colors for stockings, noting that white is only used for "full dress" (ie, very formal attire). Striped and plaid stockings are worn by day, while colored stockings with decorative clocking are used for evening.

PATTERN SUGGESTIONS

Victoria and Albert Museum