Fabric
Wool and silk were the two favorite textile choices for nice ladies' daywear in the 1860s. Wool and silk came in a much larger variety of choices than we have available now. There were lightweight sheers and tropical weights for summer, or finely woven medium weights for cooler weather. The quality was high, so modern reenactors should avoid loosely woven wools and silks with "slubs" (such as dupioni) or unevenness in the weaving.
Wools and silks came a variety of colors and designs as well. Solid colors, plaids, and stripes are all period appropriate. (If you use a recognized tartan, make sure it was around in the 1860s.) Florals are appropriate as well, but you should train your eye to 1860s designs before choosing the right floral.
Both silk and wool were easily available (except in some blockaded areas of the South) and even lower middle class ladies likely had one or two dresses in these fabrics.
Design
There were many styles available for daytime wear. All styles aimed for the "hourglass look." The top of the dress (the "bodice" or "body") was usually well fitted with dropped shoulders. The waist was defined and sat smoothly on the corset underneath. The skirt was very full, usually worn over a hoop skirt or "cage crinoline" and the hem touched or nearly touched the ground.
Bodices were always attached to the skirt. One skirt to be paired with two different bodices (a day bodice and evening bodice, for example), in which case the stitching at the waistline would be picked out in order to re-stitch the new bodice on. The bodice and skirt material always matched.
A lady's style of dress was influenced by many factors including her age, income level, and region. Styles with an 1850s flavor might still be worn by poor or middle class older ladies in the back country, whereas younger ladies' outfits in a big city would likely be more fashion-forward. However, an upper class or well-to-do older woman would be fashion-forward as well, as appropriate to her age. When determining your dress style, it helps to first decide what your 1860s persona will be first.
Options Available
Neckline - By far, the most popular neckline was the "jewel" or round neckline. The white collar was usually narrow, about 1"-2" wide. (Older ladies might still be wearing a 3"-4" collar style from the 1850s.) In a few cases, slight V necklines are seen. And for formal daywear, a open square neckline can be worn, usually filled in with a chemisette with a jewel neckline.
Sleeves - Bishop sleeves, coat sleeves and pagoda sleeves were the general categories of sleeve style. However, these basic styles could be tucked, puffed, and trimmed into many interesting treatments.
Waistline - The most popular waistline treatment was a straight waistline, often accented with a belt. However, some styles included pointed waists or basque waists.
Bodice and Skirt Closure - Hooks and eyes were the most popular closure method, though working buttons became more fashionable as the '60s progressed. Day dress bodices for adult ladies always closed in the front. Skirt closures could be in the back if the skirt was created separate from the bodice, or off-set on the front side (called a "dog leg") if permanently attached to the bodice.
Skirt - Skirts in the late '50s and early '60s were bell-shaped, as were the cages. As the '60s progressed, the elliptical style became fashionable and skirts became fuller and longer in the back. Both gauging and pleating were used to attach the skirt at the waistline. The mid-60s (very late war) saw the beginning of flat skirt fronts with the gauged or pleated fullness towards the back.
Skirts could be completely plain, or adorned with elaborate trim. Trims should match the weight of the fabric though. Heavier trims on heavier fabric, lighter trims on lighter fabric.
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| Silk Day Dress: Jewel neckline, highly trimmed coat sleeves, double pointed waist |
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| Silk Day Dress: Jewel neckline, pagoda sleeves, straight waistline |
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| Wool Day Dress: Jewel neckline, bishop sleeves, straight waistline and shawl |
PATTERN SUGGESTIONS