Parasols

A parasol was a useful accessory owned by nearly every woman except the very poor. Parasols were not only fashionable, they were helpful. Bonnets of the 1860s were set far back on the lady's head and thus did not provide a good sunblock. Parasols became a form of sunscreen for the skin and sunshade for the eyes. Just as a woman nowadays would likely take her sunglasses with her into the sun, a lady of the 1860s would carry a parasol when she went out.

Parasols came in many colors and styles, from very plain black silk to wildly colored stripes and plaids with fringe or ruffles. As with any accessory, a woman would coordinate it with her outfit. A plain parasol went with a plain outfit and a fancy one complemented a fancy outfit.

A plain black or ivory silk parasol was owned by nearly every lady, even if she had no other. Solid colors were the best for complementing a lady's dress. White or ivory was preferred as the sun didn't fade it. But black was also considered all-around useful for many occasions. Ladies in mourning carried all black parasols, but these were carried as "everyday" parasols by many ladies as well.

Some parasol were 2-toned, with a different color as the lining. Some were plaid, some striped, and some had lace overlays. A lace overlay was removable and useful for covering fading or stains, as well as changing the look of an old parasol one wished to update.

Marta Vincent, parasol expert, wrote: "The single most common 1860’s American parasol is a quite simple marquis (tilting) style with a folding handle.  The cover is black, and it is lined most often in black; but sometimes in white, cream or pale pink.  Earliest examples have very plain handles painted black with a ball, onion, lozenge, or plain hook at the end.  As the era progressed, the handles became more ornate, often with intricate carving; but still covered in black.  Many have ruffles around the edge, and some have two or three ruffles, and some have pinked edges.  I have never seen one of this style with fringe.  These seem to have been sold at department stores in major cities so there are many still around.  Frames were sturdy, and ribs were made of steel painted black."

Size and Structure

1860s parasols were small and dainty. Their diameter ranged from about 15"-20" and their length averaged 20"-25". Unlike umbrellas, which were larger, parasols were not meant to protect from rain. They were simply dainty little sunshades.

Parasols from earlier in the century may have had whalebone ribs but by the 1850s, metal ribs were preferred as being more sturdy.

Since parasols were meant for ladies to easily carry with them, some types had hinged, folding shafts. One popular style of parasol was called a marquise and it tilted sideways. This allowed a lady to use it to block sun coming from a carriage window (hence the other term "carriage parasol") or simply change the angle of the parasol without having to change the angle of the shaft.

Parasol shafts were often made of bone or ivory, but other materials were used as well. Wood was a useful substitute for ivory and was often painted to match the parasol silk. Coral or shafts inlaid with precious metals were also choices for wealthy women.

Shafts were typically straight, but some were curved or carved with beautiful designs. Obviously, fancier shafts were typically paired with fancier covers.

Two ladies in a garden, ca. late 1850s. J. Calvelo Coll.

Seen on an auction site

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Musee McCord Museum

Le Bon Ton July 1858

Peterson's Magazine 1859