Along with gloves and a handkerchief, a fan was considered the usual lady's accessory when she went out. It was never far away even at home. Fans served not only as fashion statements but also to cool a lady in the days before air conditioning. She could also use a fan to shield her face from the fire on cold days. They were handy when a lady wished to get someone's attention - she could tap them on the arm or shoulder with her fan. And of course, a flirtatious lady always found a fan a useful accessory!
Prior to the industrial revolution, fans were individual works of art. Machine manufacture of fan sticks began in the 1860s and the mass production of fans followed. Thus, the Civil War time period was an era of change where a wealthy lady might carry an expensive hand-painted fan on gold and ivory sticks at the same time that a lower class lady carried a simple linen fan on mass-produced wooden sticks. A reenactress should choose her fan carefully to harmonize with her impression.
Prior to the industrial revolution, fans were individual works of art. Machine manufacture of fan sticks began in the 1860s and the mass production of fans followed. Thus, the Civil War time period was an era of change where a wealthy lady might carry an expensive hand-painted fan on gold and ivory sticks at the same time that a lower class lady carried a simple linen fan on mass-produced wooden sticks. A reenactress should choose her fan carefully to harmonize with her impression.
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| Peterson's Magazine 1859 |
Fan styles ranged from simple palm leaf fans or handmade "fixed" fans to extremely expensive fans dressed with exotic feathers, pearls, gems, and gold.
A pleated fan was often made of silk fabric or paper and the fabric or paper folded up into pleats when the fan was closed. A brise fan was made of individual sticks that were threaded together with ribbon or cord. A fixed fan was just that - a fixed, or solid, shape attached to a stick.
These quotes from Godey's Lady's Book give an overview of some of the fashions ladies were copying.
A pleated fan was often made of silk fabric or paper and the fabric or paper folded up into pleats when the fan was closed. A brise fan was made of individual sticks that were threaded together with ribbon or cord. A fixed fan was just that - a fixed, or solid, shape attached to a stick.
These quotes from Godey's Lady's Book give an overview of some of the fashions ladies were copying.
"The newest fans are of white and black lace, lined with colored silk, such as mauve, salmon, cerise, and green. The handles are of mother-of-pearl, and the shapes various. We noticed for mourning a fan of black lace of white silk, and mounted in jet and steel. For ordinary use we recommend the little straw fans trimmed with ribbons or velvets of fancy colors. Linen fans, of different shades and styles, are also much used, especially as a pocket or travelling fan." - Godey’s Lady’s Book 1862
"The fashionable fans consist of lace. White and black lace is manufactured expressly for these fans, and is placed over colored silk. Fans of white lace are mostly lined with pink, lilac, or orange silk. White silk is generally used for fans of black lace, but for these colored silk is also often employed. The handles of these fans are formed of mother-of-pearl, and many of them are very richly set with jewels. A fan of black lace over white silk, and mounted on a handle of mother-of-pearl, unadorned with any ornament of gold, is in the best taste. Several very pretty fans, though less recherche than those just mentioned, are composed chiefly of white, pink, or black crape, spangled with gold or steel, and fringed with marabout." - Godey’s Lady’s Book 1862
"In fans, there is also a great variety. First, the elegant bridal fan, of point lace, with mother of pearl sticks richly carved. Then the lovely silks and moires, with real lace decorations. Less expensive silk fans are also to be had in endless variety. We see also the pretty little round straws, interlaced with ribbons and velvet. Also the useful companion the linen fan, to be had in white, black, brown, and gray – watered, spangled, plain and feather shaped. The prettiest style is the folding round fan, though the ordinary shape is much used." - Godey’s Lady’s Book 1863
Battenberg Lace Fans - Battenberg lace was not invented until the late 1800s. The lace referenced in the Godey's quotes above would have been much finer, more intricate and delicate than Battenberg.
Sandalwood Fans - Though these are a nice inexpensive option for careless little girls, they are not period correct for the 1860s.
Polyester Lace or Fabric and Plastic Sticks - None of these elements were invented in the 1860s and simply don't look right for our era.
The American Civil War Museum has some of these handmade straw and palmetto fans to give you an idea of how they looked. Search "fan" to find these beauties.
"Jenny Lind fans" are also a fairly simple style to copy and one that many ladies might have carried. If you don't wish to make one yourself, this Etsy shop carries nice reproductions and kits.
A lady always had a fan to complete her ensemble. It was both useful and pretty. Reenactresses can have a lot of fun with these beautiful accessories!
"In fans, there is also a great variety. First, the elegant bridal fan, of point lace, with mother of pearl sticks richly carved. Then the lovely silks and moires, with real lace decorations. Less expensive silk fans are also to be had in endless variety. We see also the pretty little round straws, interlaced with ribbons and velvet. Also the useful companion the linen fan, to be had in white, black, brown, and gray – watered, spangled, plain and feather shaped. The prettiest style is the folding round fan, though the ordinary shape is much used." - Godey’s Lady’s Book 1863
Fans to Avoid
A reenactress can add the perfect touch to her outfit with a proper fan - or ruin her impression with an inappropriate fan! Fans are becoming popular again and we love seeing them available. But we need to use judgment when buying the lovely modern "Victorian" fan designs. Three common types of fans we see now that were not used during the 1860s were these:Battenberg Lace Fans - Battenberg lace was not invented until the late 1800s. The lace referenced in the Godey's quotes above would have been much finer, more intricate and delicate than Battenberg.
Sandalwood Fans - Though these are a nice inexpensive option for careless little girls, they are not period correct for the 1860s.
Polyester Lace or Fabric and Plastic Sticks - None of these elements were invented in the 1860s and simply don't look right for our era.
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| American Civil War Museum |
Easy Styles to Copy
While Northern ladies could continue to import elegant trifles like fans, Southern ladies would have had a harder time getting these items through the blockade. A Southern reenactress can use her fan to make not only a fashion statement but a political statement as well, akin to wearing "homespun" dresses. Alabamian Parthenia Hague observed, "We became quite skilled in making designs of palmetto and straw braiding and plaiting for hats. Fans, baskets, and mats we made of the braided palmetto and straw also." |
| Rue de la Paix Reproductions |
"Jenny Lind fans" are also a fairly simple style to copy and one that many ladies might have carried. If you don't wish to make one yourself, this Etsy shop carries nice reproductions and kits.
A lady always had a fan to complete her ensemble. It was both useful and pretty. Reenactresses can have a lot of fun with these beautiful accessories!
Holly Ray - petvetholly@gmail.com
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| Barrington House collection |
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| Barrington House collection |
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| Godey's Lady's Book June 1862 |
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| La Moniteur de la Mode July 1860 |
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| Portrait of Mrs Augusta Magniac by Lord Frederic Leighton |
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| Ivory sticks, Silk and Feathers Metropolitan Museum of Art |
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| Ivory sticks, Painted silk Metropolitan Museum of Art |
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| Mother of Pearl sticks, Paper Metropolitan Museum of Art |
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| Wood sticks, Gauze "Jenny Lind" fan Metropolitan Museum of Art |
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| Straw "Cockade" fan Metropolitan Museum of Art |
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| Vulcanized Rubber and Silk "Cockade" fan Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |