Collar and cuffs were both useful and ornamental in 1860s attire. No lady would be caught without her collar, and a true lady's collar and cuffs were always clean and white. Besides being decorative, collars and cuffs, or undersleeves, served the purpose of protecting a lady's dress from wear. Collar lines and sleeve cuffs were areas that could wear out more quickly and collect body oils and dirt.
Most collars and cuffs were white, as they were meant to be laundered. However, fancy collars and cuffs (or undersleeves) could have colored ribbons on them, which could be removed when the garments were washed. The fashion magazines of the times were full of designs for collars and cuffs and undersleeves.
Collars
Collars ranged in style from a simple plain cotton band to an elaborate piece of lace. It is important to choose the collar appropriate to the type of dress. Again, most collars and cuffs were white and could be made of linen, fine cotton, batiste, lawn, voile, cotton organdy, broadcloth, pique, dimity, clear muslin, and mull. Starched linen was recommended for work or travel ensembles and riding habits. Finer dresses demanded finer collars, cuffs, or undersleeves.
Plain collars were sufficient, but a lady who wanted to make her collar (and cuffs, or undersleeves) more interesting could embellish them with whitework embroidery. They could also be edged in narrow white trim. Collars were usually made as a single layer of fabric.
By the 1860s, the style for these collars was very narrow--from 1 inch to 2.5 inches. Sometimes a beautiful piece of lace could be used instead to adorn an upscale dress.
Dresses that had an open neckline could include a type of collar called a chemisette. This was much like the modern "dickie" or false shirt. Chemisettes were generally worn with very nice day dresses or evening gowns. Chemisettes were often made from fine silk or sheer cotton with lace or embroidery for embellishment.
Collars were usually sewn on a bias strip of fabric, or cotton or linen tape, and then tacked onto the dress with large basting stitches or a few hidden pins. This made it easy to remove and replace the collar with a freshly laundered one. Fine lace collars could also be easily transferred between dresses.
Cuffs
Like collars, cuffs were white and could be made of linen, fine cotton, batiste, lawn, voile, cotton organdy, broadcloth, pique, dimity, clear muslin, and mull. Starched linen was recommended for work or travel ensembles and riding habits. The plainer the dress, the plainer the cuffs is a good rule of thumb. Nicer cuffs for better dresses could be trimmed with narrow cotton lace.
Full undersleeves could be worn as separate pieces held onto the mid-upper arms with a drawstring or elastic (yes, elastic was used). Frilly designs were used for nice day or evening wear. Some undersleeves were very elaborate and included multiple puffs or layers of lace and ribbon.
Collar & Cuff Patterns
Ensembles of the PastAmazon Drygoods
Collar and cuffs were both useful and ornamental in 1860s attire. No lady would be caught without her collar, and a true lady's collar and cuffs were always clean and white. Besides being decorative, collars and cuffs, or undersleeves, served the purpose of protecting a lady's dress from wear. Collar lines and sleeve cuffs were areas that could wear out more quickly and collect body oils and dirt.
