An endless variety of ladies' caps were worn in the mid-1860s. Caps had been around for a very long while, so the idea was not new. Only the styling changed to suit the fashions of the day.
As with many items, how elaborate the cap was depended on the formality of the occasion, the type of event, or the lady’s station in life. If you were wealthy, your cap would likely reflect your status. A lady of more moderate means would have a cap of more moderate appearance.
A cap generally had a base of fine muslin and was decorated with lace, ribbon, flowers or whatever was desired. However, caps came in a wide variety of styles and even Godey's Lady's Book observed, "Caps are the most difficult articles to advise on; they almost entirely depend on the taste of the milliner and the fashion of the day." (Godey's, June 1860)
Caps were both useful and decorative. There are three general types: Night caps, Breakfast or Morning caps, and Dressy or Evening caps.
Night Caps
Caps could be worn at night both for warmth and to keep the hair from getting tangled. Night caps generally had ties to keep them in place and were made to fit around the head.
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
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| Godey's Lady's book 1862 |
Breakfast Caps
In the mornings upon arising, a mid-Victorian lady often wore a wrapper as she began her day. She might wear it merely while doing her toilette, or it might be her garb through breakfast and her morning activities. A proper and lovely headdress for a wrapper outfit was a "Breakfast Cap."
Breakfast caps could look simple or fancy, and be quite refined and lovely in detail. They ranged from a basic cover for a "bad hair day" to a frilly little confection to wear while in the house.
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
Dressy Evening Caps
Caps were also worn as fancy evening headdresses, especially by middle aged or older ladies whose hair might be thinning. These were more than a simple muslin cap - they often included lace, velvet, ribbon, rosettes and all manner of fancy work.
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
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| Godey's Lady's Book 1862 |
Sources for Caps
Southern Serendipity
