Most crinolines were made of steel, but but whalebone, cane, gutta percha and other materials were also used (substitutes were especially used by the South near the end of the war).
Cage crinolines were worn by all women, from poor factory workers to rich ladies. Cages were appropriate for every outfit from wrappers (though optional with them) to day dresses to evening dresses.
Small cages of around 85"-90" circumference might be used for work conditions, though not necessary unless working around a fire. Larger cages of up to 115" could be used for any other type of dress.
Some cages were completely open while others had fabric sewn around the bottom to protect the lady from sticking her foot through it. A cage typically came to about mid-calf on a lady's leg.
Cage shapes went from round bells in the 1850s to an elliptical shape in the mid-1860s. An 1850s skirt therefore is generally the same length all the way around (unless you have a train). A mid-1860s skirt, on the other hand, will be longer in the back to properly cover the elliptical cage.
Patterns
Cages and Kits
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| ca.1860. Met Museum |
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| ca. 1862. Met Museum |
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| ca. 1865 LACMA |