Civil War Dress for Ladies: Belts

In the 1850s, ladies’ dresses were generally long-waisted with pointed waistlines. By the 1860s, the length of the bodice shortened dramatically and most waistlines fell just below the rib cage instead of lower down on the hips. Though some waistlines continued to have points, straight waists also came into fashion. As waistlines straightened and shortened, belts became popular.

Belt Materials

Silk, velvet or fine leather were typical choices for the belt. Lovely ribbons or the fabric of the dress itself could be used. Velvet ribbon was also an option. Some belts were made of very fine, quality leather (modern thick leather belts are not period correct). Obviously, the style and material of the belt would be chosen to fit the type of dress. Gold clasps and velvet belts, for instance, would not likely be paired with a cotton wash dress.

Belt Buckles

A wide variety of materials were used for belt buckles but there were just a few favorite shapes. One style favored was a tall, rectangular shape. This could be made from metal, gutta percha, cut steel, or mother-of-pearl, and often had inlaid designs. Two-piece latching buckles were also popular and were typically made of the same materials as the rectangular buckles.

Medici Belt

Medici Belts

Certain types of fashionable outfits could be accessorized with a Medici belt. These belts were typically made of silk, fully boned, and fastened with hooks and eyes or lacing. Some were beautifully embroidered as well. Medici belts were not tied in the back like the cheap ones you see at some reenactment sutlers. They were custom fitted and beautifully made.

Bow Belts

Bows were often used to set off a dress. Bows could be placed in the back, in the front and to the side. Silk or velvet would normally be the material used for these accents.

Rosette Belts

Rosette Belt

Rosette belts became popular in the 1860s. They could be worn with a plain everyday dress, evening dress or ball gown. Some rosettes were made from the same fabric as the dress, as was the belt itself. Some were created to match the dress’s trim or to be a contrasting color altogether.

Materials used were silk, velvet, ribbon or the dress fabric itself. Some centers were left plain, while others were adorned with a matching fabric button or a contrasting button. Godey’s Lady’s Book in May 1860 described a rosette belt as having “a small rosette, which is formed of a ribbon about one inch in width, drawn round a button covered with the same as the rosette…” Rosette belts could be worn with the rosette in the center of the waist, or off-set to the side of the waist. They were typically made to fit the lady’s waist and fastened with a hook and eye.

Quotes on Belts

The latest style of belt is quite wide, and shaped to the figure. These are worn with colossal buckles of mother-of-pearl, enamel, steel, jet or gilt. Some have the initials, interlaced with bars and scrolls. – Godey’s Lady’s Book, October 1864

Belt clasps have taken the place of buckles to a great extent, and have the effect of a double buckle: they are of gilt, mother-of-pearl, jet, jet and steel, cut and frosted steel, besides the expensive ones in gold, coral, enamel, etc., that are a costly and elegant ornament. Nothing will be more popular for a Christmas or New Year’s gift the present winter; they may be had as simple or as costly as desired. – Godey’s Lady’s Book, December 1860